First Published August 18,2005 at www.travelblog.org/bloggers/gypsygal

PAK BENG, LAOS — We spent a night in the tiny village of Pak Beng – a halfway point between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang. The slow boats don't travel at night so we have to stop here for dinner and get some sleep.

A rustic town clustered with houses made of woodscraps and corrugated tin; and streets littered with stray dogs, and kids playing around, Pak Beng isn't actually a novelty for someone like me who've been to remote areas in the Philippines. I was after all a journalist, and journalist will go anywhere to get a story.

The thing is, I went to these places for work. And while roughing it is supposed to be part and parcel of a backpacker's life, it was here in Pak Beng that I learned something about myself: I am a city girl and I live a city life.

I hate Pak Beng. In fact, I woke up early (6 am) the next day because I cant wait to leave (our boat will actually depart by 8 am) But I cant just stand the musty, dark bedroom; the dirty bedsheet; the mosquitoes (I smothered myself with OFF lotion); the

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Pak Beng
The rustic village of Pak Beng

grotty communal squat toilet; the fact that theres only electricity until 10 pm, after that the village was in total darkness. Aaggh! I consumed several bottles of mineral water just for brushing my teeth, and washing my face. I didn't bother to shower. I hate the muddy market, the stinking smell of dried buffalo skin.

***

Yeah I whined and whined but at the same time I was thinking: Here I am complaining about the toilet and the lack of facilties, but it never occured to me that things might be more difficult for poor people here. I doubt if they get adequate medical attention. Do they have enough to eat? Are the kids studying?

Eat Your Greens

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Vegetable Vendor in Pak Beng