Text and Photos by Prime Sarmiento
It's the Lunar New Year, and if ever you're in Manila there's no better place to welcome the Year of the Wooden Horse but in Binondo. And who knows I might bumped into you as I will be probably celebrating New Year's Day there (that or, I will probably be loading up on tikoy and ponkan in my parents' house in Tondo).
I'm certainly no Binondo expert but I grew up in a place just a few blocks away from the city's Chinatown . And since I always find myself going there once in a while just to eat, meet up with friends or buy something, I am always happy to guide anyone who wants a quick tour of Binondo – the world's oldest – and definitely one of the most picturesque and liveliest Chinatowns in the world.
Very few can really appreciate Binondo – most people just associate it as a place to eat and shop. Well, there's that and there's also the fact that this place has a role in Philippine history and culture.
So just to give a brief historical background – because I don't want to deprive you of of that precious time to savor that ube hopia you just bought – :
Binondo was a settlement created in the 16th century during the Spanish colonization era. The Spanish colonizers designated this area just outside Intramuros (which was then the seat of power) to serve as settlement for the Chinese migrants, most of whom are from the southern province of Fujian ( trivia: my great great grandpa was among those migrants so yes I have Fujianese ancestors and no, I can't speak Hokkien ). Most of these migrants were traders and craftsmen – in fact that was why they were in Manila to begin with. They've been trading with Filipinos centuries before Spanish colonizers (and those friars who forced us to become Catholics – oh God please don't get me started…) came to this archipelago.
Of course, being entrepreneurial, these Chinese immigrants started setting up businesses in order to provide for their families (because well, they eventually married some of the natives, duh!). So it became a premier business district and Binondo, once upon a time, was the center of commerce.
The country's business district is now located elsewhere. But Binondo retained its “business” character. Binondo is after all connected to Divisoria – one of the world’s largest flea markets. Until now, Binondo has streets which are just dedicated to certain type of businesses. And while there's now a big shiny new shopping mall here, Binondo has not lost its character. Foodies and shoppers alike can still find something to enjoy in Binondo’s streets – chockablock with stores and shops selling everything from fresh produce, noodles and herbal medicine to jewelry, paper lantern and dvds. My mom once swore that if those shops accept credit cards (sorry most of them only accept cash), she would shop till she drop (or run out of available credit – whichever comes first. Although I suspect the latter will happen first).
But while a relatively small district in a sprawling metropolis that is Metro Manila, a lot of people might get lost just walking all over is many nooks and crannies. The key then to touring Binondo is a.) to know what you want and b.) to know the name of the street where such product is sold or c.) to be happy getting lost (and found and getting lost again).
So just to give you a quick tip:
*You go to Evangelista st. to buy electronic parts.
*You go to Tomas Pinpin st. to buy furniture.
*You go to Nueva St. to buy school supplies. You can then to go to Ho-Land Bakery to purchase freshly cooked hopiang baboy and munggo cooked with , well, LARD. Yup that's why it's tasty. Or if you prefer handmade dumplings, then do grab some at Dong Bei Dumplings.
*You go to Ongpin st. for jewelry (and to eat roast peking duck in President's Restaurant) . Of course further up Ongpin, just across Binondo Church is the Eng Bee Tin shop – source of that famous ube hopia and that tempting and calorie-rich mochipia (that yummy combination of tikoy and hopia which I'd rather not think about right now …)
*You go to Carvajal St. to buy ingredients like sea cucumbers and black chicken for that Chinese specialty that you will be cooking on Chinese New Year.
*You go to Salazar St. to buy crystals and other feng shui items (this is also where you can buy tikoy, hopia and other delicacies from Diao Eng Chay).
*You go to Benavidez St. to eat – well you can eat anywhere in Binondo, but if you are craving for fried siopao and bicho bicho, hand-pulled noodles (go to Lanzhou La Mian for that) or chicken feet and radish cake (Wai Ying is a one stop place for Cantonese dimsum) then this is the street to be.
*There's actually a street selling just lamps and fixtures but I forgot the name so if you do know that please tell me.
*You go to Soler St., because 168 Mall is there and you are a frugalista who want to be in fashion but have no burning desire to get broke.
*And then you go to Lachambre st. because you really really really miss going to the mall and this where you can find Lucky Chinatown Mall, where you can drink your frappucino in Starbucks, watch a movie and just chill.
If you will be in Binondo during the Chinese New Year (that's on Jan. 31), then you'll probably see lion and dragon dances everywhere. Everyone will be celebrating and with people coming in droves, be sure to where your most comfy shoes, bring your camera and join the fun!
And even if you can't join the festivities, you can always explore Binondo anytime. There’s always something new to discover and rediscover here – even if it's not the Chinese New Year.
Xin Nian Kuai Le! Gong Xi Fa Cai!
